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The Great and Powerful "Times" Has Spoken
Wednesday, January 31, 2007 | posted by Mike

Gordon RamsayIn what may officially be the final nail in the coffin of Gordon Ramsay's New York adventure, The New York Times, in the person of Frank Bruni, has weighed in today with a two star (out of four) review of Gordon Ramsay at the London. Now, I don't read the Times every day, but the hole-in-the-wall Mediterranean joint down the street from TVFF.com Headquarters got three stars, so I'm guessing this is bad news.

As we've heard in many places before, Bruni just finds it...dull.

The chef Gordon Ramsay has a British television show called “The F Word,” an American television show called “Hell’s Kitchen” and, by all accounts and appearances, the kind of foul mouth and foul temper those titles suggest.

You might expect his debut New York restaurant to be brash and any of its shortcomings to be attributable to audacity, not timidity.

You’d be wrong.

The meta-reviewing (i.e. reviews of Bruni's review) is also in full swing, with Bloomberg, New York Magazine and Gothamist chiming in and pointing out that Bruni is echoing what has been said by just about anyone else who has offered an opinion on the restaurant.

And so, it looks like Gordon Ramsay's British invasion of America was more "Dave Clark Five" than "Beatles."

While we're on the topic of Frank Bruni...he also reviewed Top Chef, which runs its finale tonight. (Thanks for the tip on the TC review, Stacey!)



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